A sign of life!

Well, sort of.  We had our first day of wiring work, and we met with some success.  Armed with our wiring diagram, we started the process.

What a tangled web we've weaved!  Starting from the handlebar switchgear, we moved our way to the rear of the bike, which housed the battery, fuse box, regulator/rectifier, and turn signal relay.

The other end...  The first item we got to work was the horn, once we figured the switch itself was grounded to the handlebars.  After turning on the main switch, we got the first "beeps".

Next we set about working on the headlights.  At first they didn't work, until Mr. S remembered that the fuse box only works when there are fuses to complete the circuit!  You can see the 10amp one in place to the left.

While it looks a complicated mess, we actually got the lights to work, both low beam and high beam!  However, they came on as soon as the main switch (the key) was turned on.  We don't want to drain the battery, so we need to figure out how to wire in the on/off switch on the RHS handlebar switch.  That will take some thinking.

This is how we left it.  Of course, when we do get everything working -- the brake light switch, the turn signals, the dash light, and a spark, we will use proper connectors, and clean the assembly up "proper".  Mr. S will need to visit NAPA or some similar store to get quality block connectors to go with the blade connectors we have already.  We want the assembly to look "factory" and also be reliable and watertight.
We will miss next week due to spring break, but will carry on in April.

Back at it

With a few more Cafe sessions missed due to busy students, and Mr. Sheppard forgetting the camera on one occassion, we had another session on the 12th of March.  The main goal of this session was to finish mounting the electrical components so we could begin the wiring process.

Here a student drills the mounting hole for one of the brackets.  We have hopefully come up with a way to hide the regulator/rectifier under the seat with a sturdy aluminum mount, while still giving it enough clearance to stay cool... this component has been known to heat up a bit.

Trying to get everything lined up square, even though it will be hidden under the seat hump, took some figuring.  Hey look!  This is why we learn how to divide fractions!  What is half of 8 1/4"???  Fuse box will be mounted just ahead of the battery. 

Intake manifold/carb solution #3... third time is a charm.  The folks at Wiseguys Choppers thankfully exchanged our radical intake with something a bit more traditional, but still utilizes a single carb.  For the sake of the kids, Mr. Sheppard fabricated the custom throttle cable on his own... this was #4, and hopefully the last!

Next session, we will start to wire the bike!

Grinding, Drilling, and Welding

We didn't have a full 2 hours today as the students scheduled had to head to the rink for hockey practice.  However we made most of the afternoon, as we were able to work with some pneumatic tools to advance the project.
Last week saw us put together the rear tail light assembly, combining parts from pre 1977 and post 1977 models.  We hit a minor roadblock as the socket for the tailight bulb fouled on the mounting bracket.  Some short work with the die grinder solved that.  Thanks to Mr. Gugin for the use of the tool -- setting up, as well as lending the protective equipment!  The light now fits in the bracket so we will reassemble the parts to test fit next time.

Next we needed to drill holes to set nuts into the frame rail, in order to mount the aluminum battery tray/fuse holder/fender.  Mr. Sheppard had taken the cardboard cutout and fashioned an aluminum equivalent, which you can see on the edge of the workbench.  We need to drill...

Locate the nuts in the holes (shouldered nuts work great here...)

And then weld them in place.  Note that not a lot of filler is needed, as these really aren't load-bearing nuts.  The bolt on the left hand side was used to ensure the nut was square to the frame.  Once everything is cooled, we will remove the bolt, and then use a die to chase the threads to make sure they will work with the appropriate bolt.  Much better than aluminum riv-nuts, which are another option.

Finally, the boys get a look at the wiring diagram.  It looks complicated, but with some patience and trial and error, it will work.  Big thanks to xs650.com forum member "jayel" from Southwestern Iowa, who made the diagram for us to use.

Back at it

January has been a bit of a hit-and-miss month with the project, as many of the students are also involved with basketball and curling, both of which also fall on Tuesdays.  The start of Februrary sees these activities wrap up, so kids are become more available to continue working on the bike.

A bigger job for this session was stripping the wiring harness in order to start from scratch.  As mentioned previously, the entire bike will be re-wired, from scratch, mating 40-year old handlebar controls with a modern ignition system, regulator/rectifier, and blade fuses.  Took almost the entire session, but with patience, the harness was stripped and we should have enough wire (in the right colors) to connect all the component parts.

Part of what makes a Cafe bike "trick" is to create the clean look.  The advantage of our seat section is that some bulky parts, like the batter and other components, can be hidden under the seat hump.  First step is to trace... you can see the student in the background utilizing some scrap cardboard and a steady hand.

And then we cut!  This piece will be traced onto an aluminum sheet and cut out.  It will act as a inner fender, as well as allow a spot for the battery box to be mounted, and will also provide some "real estate" to mount the fuse box and perhaps the regulator/rectifier.

While this was going on, another student worked on the front end of the bike.  The top triple clamp needed to be removed and the new headlight ears installed onto the forks.  Once done, this allowed the front end to be finished up in terms of the front suspension.

Once done, we are mixing and matching some parts for the rear tailight.  We didn't finish it during this session (we need to modify a bracket), but we think we've come up with an acceptable way to mount the tailight to the bike.

We started the last session by finishing off the suggested jetting changes.  The last piece of the puzzle was to switch to a size #25 pilot jet.  Once again the float bowl was removed and the correct jet installed.  So with a new needle, main, and pilot jet, as well as a new needle seat, we should have a good spot for a baseline to do fine tuning... when the bike gets running!

We have also come to realize that the side numberplates of the Manx seat won't work with our choice of intake manifold... and for a few other reasons, we also decided to eliminate the side plates from our seat. These have to be removed slowly and carefully, so the Dremel tool was fired up once again. 

Steady as she goes... note the mask and eye protection!

While the seat was getting trimmed, Mr. S finished welding the new seat mount to the frame, after being tack-welded in place previously.  Once alignment was checked and re-checked, we went ahead with the permanent solution.  Next, the remaining mounting holes were drilled once marks were made.

Over the weekend, Mr. S bought some slip-fit exhaust pieces from Canadian Tire as a trial fit for the exhaust.  This solution appears to be workable, so the plan is to weld extensions on to the current pipes, so that the megaphone exhaust will clear the rearsets, as well as the rear axle.  The end result won't look pretty, so the headers will have to be stripped and refinished somehow.

Over the next while it is finally time to tackle the wiring.  Not sure how things will go... we've got the original wiring diagram to go by, as well as several examples of solutions others have found incorporating the more modern components like our Pamco kit and PMA alternator.  That, combined with the use of the stock handlebar switchgear, as well as safety requirements, will be a test.  Might as well dive right in!




 

 

 



Seatwork

While a student and I did some work on the carb and throttle cable (version 3), we installed new exhaust gaskets and took another stab at fitting the exhaust.  Once again, it appears that the system will not work "perfectly" with a drum brake model machine -- the splined shaft that actuates the rear drum brake will foul on the exhaust megaphone.  Again, we need to think on a solution.

We then went about fitting the new gasket to the crankcase breather.  Some gentle surface prep was required.

Next we went to work prepping the cafe seat for fitment.  We haven't done anything permanent as we really needed to see where and how it could be best fit to the frame itself.  We will use the "stock" mounting points, so the three holes were drilled to orient this part to the frame.







Now that these have been determined, once we had offered it up to the frame, located it with the seat foam and shorter than usual tank, it became apparent that using the traditional mounting location was not going to work.  As a result, we will have to mount a new plate onto the frame to locate the seat.

Mr. S had brought along his welding kit, and some steel plate, and we set about cutting and measuring an appropriate mounting plate.  At this point we are not done (yet), but it was interesting to note how "long" it took to properly make the plate, and we haven't even attached it yet!  Mr. S will come in after school to do some welding to the frame, based on the work the students have done to date.  Accuracy is key!!!

Back at It

After the Christmas break we were eager to get back at the wrenching.  A number of parts had come in over the holiday, and Mr. S brought those along to the session.

Step One for this session was to test-fit the exhaust system.  No instructions were included, so some trial and error ensued. 

The end result was that the headers fit properly, but it appears the location/outlet angle of the 2-1 collector will foul on the rearset.  This is typical with any custom build.  Basically, we will need to do a bit of "thinnin'" to come up with a solution. 

We spent the remainder of the time test fitting the rear fender, and custom-making a throttle cable.  We worked on some measuring, cutting, and soldering techniques.  Honestly, it took quite a while, and the whole process was a bit fiddly.  In the end, we got a throttle cable cut and fabricated, but the "Option A" routing left the throttle action a bit stiff -- too long, and too many bends.  The "sidewinder" intake is very cool and unique, but causes a bit of a problem with cable routing.  We will have to try "Option B"  which means re-doing the cable.  Again, some reality therapy for the students.  This would not end up on American Chopper!

Finally, a big shout out to Tim Aysan.  A fellow Canuck, he donated a spare crankcase vent for our project.  Tim is a Cafe fan, and runs www.dotheton.com.  Be sure to check out their site if you can.  Thanks Tim!